ACHIEVE THAT PERFECT LOOK

Prince charming for a day!  For that perfectly polished look just follow these easy formal-dressing rules.  Remember all you grooms & groomsmen out there to always try your tuxedos on for the final fittings before leaving the formalwear rental shops to avoid potential problems.  All tuxedos are not alike in appearance.  Subtle differences in jackets, collars and pants styles can truly make the difference when combined together, and depending on the body type of the man.  Keep in mind that your wedding portrait will be displayed proudly for many years, and for all to see. A few questions you may wish to ask (or keep in mind) when shopping around for your tuxedos are listed below. 

• Is there rental fee discounted if you have a large party?
• Does the store offer 24 hour service for any emergencies? If not, do they provide you with an emergency telephone number?
• Are all tuxedo styles (samples they have in their store) in stock & readily available?
• Is the person measuring you qualified, and will know what your needs are regarding your measurements?
• Is all work done on premises? (hemming, pressing, etc.)  By the owner?
• If it is a small shop, will they provide their home phone number if asked?
• What is the earliest I should be placing my order (to ensure availability of the style I choose)? (they should be telling you 2 1/2 - 3 months)

ALWAYS TRY YOUR TUXEDO ON BEFORE LEAVING THE PREMISES.  IT IS BETTER TO HANDLE ANY PROBLEMS WHILE YOU'RE THERE.

Below are some suggestions for choosing a style that's right for you.

Body Types

Small frame: should look for single-breasted jackets with long lines, a low-button stance (it elongates the body), and wide peak lapels.  Selection of the right pant style is important as well. Reverse double-pleated trousers is a great choice for grooms with smaller frames.  Keep in mind that the perfect pant leg should always break slightly on top of the shoe and angle a bit downward in back. 

Other Options Include: wearing a double-breasted tuxedo jacket or a subtly patterned vest and tie. 

Stocky grooms 5'8" and under: An athletic or muscular body type usually looks best in a tuxedo jacket with slim shawl collars.  The top button should fall at the small of the waist to provide the torso with a leaner look. This body type should choose jackets with a natural shoulder line and try to avoid the more broad European styles.  When it comes to pants, reverse double-pleated trousers with the pleats extending toward the pockets tend to offer the best comfort and style.  The pants should extend as low as possible on the foot, angles slightly in the back to elongate the leg.  Try to avoid too much of a break on the foot, this causes the pant leg to slope and look sloppy.

Tall, large frame: this body type usually looks best in shawl-collar tuxedos.  The jacket length is extremely important, and to get the best fit, the groom should place his arms at his sides and relax his hands and fingers.  At this point in the fitting of the jacket, the grooms fingertips should touch the bottom of the jacket.  His shirt cuffs should extend at least half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve also.  Look to spread collars and fuller bow ties. The pant leg should have a slightly wider silhouette to accommodate a larger thigh also.

Tall, thin grooms: look terrific in almost every tuxedo style. One popular choice is the double-breasted tuxedo with slightly broad shoulders and a suppressed waist.  The jacket buttons should close high on the waistline. A high shoulder line is better than a natural one also. Keep in mind that you want the garments to be full, while still following the lines of the body.

Suits: Cutaway & stroller for formal daytime weddings (11-4pm), groom wears the cutaway/morning coat, tapering from the front waist button to a long, wide back tail.  Accessories may include a wing-collar shirt with an ascot and a coordinating vest.  Groomsmen wear the stroller/walking coat, spread-collar shirt and a four-in-hand-tie.  Both jackets should be in either black or gray, and are worn with matching striped trousers.

Dinner Jackets: An ivory or white jacket with black formal trousers is an ideal option in spring and summer months, or year round in warmer climates for formal and semi-formal evening weddings.

Tuxedo: A single-or-double-breasted jacket with matching trousers for formal or semiformal evening weddings is preferred, and tuxes come in a variety of fabrics.  Accessories include a dress shirt with cuff links and studs, as well as a bow tie with a vest or cummerbund.  

White Tie: The classic choice for the ultra formal evening wedding.  The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long back tails. A white pique (a waffle-textured fabric in cotton or cotton blend) front wing-collar shirt, tie, and vest are also worn.  Tailcoats can be worn for formal daytime or evening weddings in navy, burgundy, or gray with matching ties and cummerbunds.

Lapels: Suit jackets come with three basic lapel styles.  Some are definitely more flattering when compared to other types.  Choosing the one that's right for you is just a matter of taste.

Notch: A triangular indentation is cut where the lapel joins the collar.

Peak: A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out below the collar line.

Shaw: A smooth, rounded lapel.

Shirts: The primary difference between shirt styles is in the collar, whether with or without ruffles, stripes, pleats, or other decorations.

Classic Shirt: The traditional formal shirt is white with buttons or stud closures.  It may or may not have French cuffs and usually has pleats on either side of the buttons or studs.

Band Collar: A collar that stands up around the neck and above the buttons.  The complete length of tie around the neck is visible on this type of collar.

Wing Collar: This is similar to a band collar but with two turned-down points in front that give the appearance of a spread collar.

Spread Collar: This is similar to a man's standard button-front shirt, it folds over around the neck with a wide division between points in front.